Merlyn Graves’ Kawasaki KI-100 Project



The wing halves are now joined and ready to mate to the fuse for installation of the hold down bolts.

The wing saddle sections have been sheeted with 1/8" balsa and the ply plates installed for the blind nuts.

After fiber glassing the center section, the holes are drilled and blind nuts installed. Then seating washers are glued in place for the wing bolts.

Construction of the belly pan starts

The belly pan is complete

The fuse is fully sheeted and ready for fiber glassing. While the resin sets, it is time to work on the canopy molds again.

After spaying the plugs with cooking oil, the Ultra-Cal 30 is mixed and applied.This picture shows the first layer being applied approximately 1/8" thick.


After the first layer is on, fiber tape is applied to give the mold strength so it doesn't crack or break during handling.

After about 30 minutes the final layer is added to make it 3/8" to ½" thick. After it has cured the plug is removed.

While the canopy molds are curing, I have begun construction of the plug for the engine cowl. Seven 16" diameter circles are cut out of 2" pink foam and glued together. Then it is then mounted in my drill press to act as a vertical lathe.

Only the front half of the cowl can be done in the lathe since the back must conform to the firewall shape.

A masonite firewall template is attached to the back of the plug. Then I have made shaping tools out of ¾" poplar and attached self-adhesive 50 grit aluminum oxide sand paper to the edges. The rear of the plug is then hand sanded to conform to the firewall template.

In this picture the forward cowl ring has been defined, the carburetor air intake duct has been added, the cannon ports have been sanded out, and final spackling has been applied. As soon as it is sanded out, it will be ready to be fiber glassed and primed.

The foam plugs have been removed from the canopy molds and now it is time to fill them with Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty. The center is filled with styrofoam to minimize the amount of putty that is required. After curing overnight, the plug can be removed and final sanded with foam sandpaper.


040 P.E.T.G is fixed to a frame in preparation for vacuum forming. The frame will be set in my oven at 150 degrees for about 15 minutes to remove any moisture from the plastic. Then I turn on the broiler and wait for the plastic to sag about 2” under the frame before removing to the vacuum former.


Plastic pulled down over the frame and formed to the plug


After the canopy is removed, it is cut down, sanded smooth with an orbital sander, and final sanded with 400 wet/dry paper. Then a second canopy is pulled over the first to create a totally clear glass canopy.


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